The Masters

yes agree w/ grimwiiper. Good ole trial and error or the school of hard knocks will make anybody proficient and learning the shots/techniques. DD-did you find Glen's technique to be more beneficial enough so to change your style of play or approach? Thanx

wii.Rudolpho wrote:I never use DRAW/FADE unless it is mandatory e.g. TPC Sawgrass #2, Bethpage #2... I see that Glen uses this alot but mainly just to hit a more lean or straight shot towards the pin instead of letting the wind do its thing. Although this method works just fine and to each his/her own, it restricts the full distance of that club being that the inertia of the ball has to fight the push/pull/drag of the wind (Glen explains this in his thread). Mathematically speaking, the flight of the ball is the "tangent" line and the direction it travels afterwards is the "cotangent". Does everyone rember geometry in 8th grade? Same thing applies in a game of billiards. The most important thing to note is how the speed of the wind applies to the ball, where to aim your circle based upon wind direction and the slope of the green. Anything spinning one direction (clockwise) will always counter spin (counter-clockwise) when it hits a target without applying any additional outside force or spin. Apply the "bounce" factor--meaning that, depending on the hardness of surface how much this surface will be pushing back or appying bounce to the ball. Newton and Einstein explain this the best: a body's motion is described as a combination of free (inertial) motion a.k.a. your golf ball, and deviations from this free motion. Such deviations are caused by external forces (wind/surface/spin) acting on a body in accordance with Newton's second law of motion, which states that: the net force acting on a body is equal to that body's (inertial) mass multiplied by its acceleration. At this point all of you are like "WTF" right? But honestly this is the sh*t that goes through my brain all of the time. Go play a game of pool to understand this better and I'm sure that theJokker and Glen will back me up on this. People with a good knowledge of math and/or physics, especially geometry+calculus will inevitably have no problem playing this game...its whether or not they can swing straight that will determine the outcome. Next up Newton's laws of gravity.....

Today my 7 years old son watched me playing the Daily Am and I told him:It just happens inside your brain. i.e calculating. You are the professor, i´m just the student, Rudolpho! Don´t kick me out of your class

LeeTargo

I rarely use draw/fade unless its getting around a dogleg, however I'm starting to do it for some approach shots to the green. I find my 5 and 7 irons run a long way after they hit the green so shaping the shot to give me the most green to work with works well. Still perfecting it so it doesnt always come off right but when I do get it right it makes a difference.

Best tip I can give is pay a lot of attention to your putting and improve it to the point where you are confident of making mid-range putts. This is very handy for holes with difficult pin positions where there is very little green to work with near the pin. If you are confident you can sink a 5-10m putt then you have the option of playing a safe shot into the green, rather than going for the difficult approach to get you within 1-2m. Unless you sink your approach shot if you sink the putt it doesnt matter whether the putt was 1 or 10m long.

I do generally go for the aggressive shots but it is very handy to have the option to play it safe and still be confident it wont affect my score.

Also know where your "dead zones" between your clubs are. I dont carry a HLW so 50-60m is a bit of a tricky shot for me, I am much better off dropping down a club and hitting an approach shot from 75-100m out. This ties right into course management, a lot of holes it is better to hold your drive back a bit to guarantee playing off a flat spot. From memory Fancourt and K club have a few holes where if you drive the hell out of it you and up playing out of a spot with a lot of severe slopes, dropping back to a 3 wood or 1 iron gives you an easy shot off a flat bit of the fairway.

What Rudolpho said

My 2 cents is that if your a very good putter like me, rudolpho, etc. than focus on getting it inside 40 feet rather than 5. theres no difference if you make a 5 foot putt for birdie and a 35 foot putt for birdie. a good putt is better than a dialed in approach.

wii.LongHitter wrote:My 2 cents is that if your a very good putter like me, rudolpho, etc. than focus on getting it inside 40 feet rather than 5. theres no difference if you make a 5 foot putt for birdie and a 35 foot putt for birdie. a good putt is better than a dialed in approach.

I beg to differ LH. If I had to make a 5' putt or less on every hole on Oakmont or WolfCreek during pro conditions and you had to make a 35'-40' putt on every hole on same course playing me, who do you think would have the advantage? This is why short games are so critical in the game of golf. Pro's practice Pitching, Chipping, and Putting more than any other shot. More so about 80% more concentration is spent on these particular shots than just driving the ball or approach shots. In this case, my above statement would support your theory. however, I'll take the "gimme 5' footer" anyday over a 10yd undulating putt. Anyone can put it on the green, but how good are you to get it ridiculously close consistently? Getting it in tight allots for more opportunity to hole out rather than a potential birdie or par.

wii.LongHitter wrote:My 2 cents is that if your a very good putter like me, rudolpho, etc. than focus on getting it inside 40 feet rather than 5. theres no difference if you make a 5 foot putt for birdie and a 35 foot putt for birdie. a good putt is better than a dialed in approach.

There is a big difference. Its called 30'!!! The only similarity is the end result. Its achieving that end result that separates my game from inferior golfers. I play a lot of people who are very, very good; but they lack putting and chipping skills necessary to score under par consistently. Those people would take the 5' footer any day over some of the putts they are forced to shoot. Most of my time is concentrating/calculating the distance needed to drive the ball within a formidable 0-39yds or 52-75yds of the green. This enables me to accurately pitch the ball within 5' every single time; the other 50% of the time they go in!!! In your case maybe you should change your name from LongHitter to LongPutter.

JK. Have fun & Good Luck!

wii.Rudolpho wrote:yes agree w/ grimwiiper. Good ole trial and error or the school of hard knocks will make anybody proficient and learning the shots/techniques. DD-did you find Glen's technique to be more beneficial enough so to change your style of play or approach? Thanx

Any tip that comes from Glen is sure to be useful so I'll usually try them all at least once. I've never had an AHO miss before today though, and using Glen's method caused one to go well off target, so I'll stick with what was working.

My game is made up of smoke and mirrors. I'm good, but I rely heavily on AHO's. I can't give that part of my game up. If EA does in fact disable them for TW11 however, I will applaud them. I'd love nothing more than to see them gone. But if my opponent has access to them and uses them against me, you can be darn sure I'll use it back against them. (And I do)

To go back to my original comment, I was referring to having the option to play a safe shot if necessary. Obviously if you have to make 10m puts every hole then at least a couple would miss, by the same token if you were forced to play all your approach shots to a small landing area then a few of those would miss the green as well. My comment was more directed at longer approach shots in excess of 150m, shots like a 7I or up where in most cases you get a fair bit of roll on the green. Anything where you are using a wedge or down you should go straight at the hole unless the wind is really extreme because the ball can be stopped within 1m of where it lands, there is rarely any risk/reward trade off because there is no risk.

Say you are playing a long par 5 with a 200m approach with the pin tucked away behind a bunker. If you cant shape the shot to give you some extra room to run the ball then I would probably hit towards the open part of the green to guarantee getting a putt for eagle, rather than trying to pull off a miracle shot to give yourself a shorter putt. In the end you have to weigh up the risk/reward for each shot but if you are confident in your putting ability then you can afford to take a lower risk shot. If you have no confidence in your ability to sink a putt over 5m then you are forced to play higher risk shots to give yourself a chance to get the low scores.

Basically what I am saying is exactly what Rudolpho said. The short game is absolutely critical in golf, hence the saying "drive for show, putt for dough".

you didnt get me. if your always knocking long putts or missing them by a hair every once in a while. im a solid putter, and i rarley miss putts under 50 feet. its always great to have a tap in birdie, but being a great putter means your aproaches still should be accurate but not dead on the pin since you make all tge putts anyway. besides, it gets quite boring having 2 foot puts on every hole.

wii.DavidDuval wrote:

wii.Rudolpho wrote:yes agree w/ grimwiiper. Good ole trial and error or the school of hard knocks will make anybody proficient and learning the shots/techniques. DD-did you find Glen's technique to be more beneficial enough so to change your style of play or approach? Thanx

Any tip that comes from Glen is sure to be useful so I'll usually try them all at least once. I've never had an AHO miss before today though, and using Glen's method caused one to go well off target, so I'll stick with what was working.

My game is made up of smoke and mirrors. I'm good, but I rely heavily on AHO's. I can't give that part of my game up. If EA does in fact disable them for TW11 however, I will applaud them. I'd love nothing more than to see them gone. But if my opponent has access to them and uses them against me, you can be darn sure I'll use it back against them. (And I do)

Perhaps your game is moving forward because AHOs interfere with too many shots, preventing you from receiving the accurate feedback you need in order to make better shot setups in future. Yes, initially your scores will increase by around 3 to 4 (in your case). But give it say 20 to 30 rounds and you'll be back down to your normal scores and be enjoying it more. Additionally, you'll be in a much better position to play TW11. You'll have to go through this sooner or later.

Glen

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 11/22/2009 23:47:47

No trick just a tip. Learn to manage the course!! Pick ur spots. The long ball is not always necessary. I dont have the consistent accuracy like some golfers do to drop the ball 5-10 feet from the pin with any club. If my first shot wont get within 70 yards of the green, I will try to lay up to set up my second shot to put me 130-150 yrds out leaving me with a SW or PW shot which I'm most comfortable with under most conditions.

BTW..I only hit a draw with my Driver and for me that cant be helped so I adjust for it. Other than that I let the wind work for me. If no wind, I just hit it straight!

I play Advanced Swing (no spin) with the M+, so I have very few useful tips.

1. I nearly always get better results from an 80-90% approach shot than from lofting up and going 100%, especially if I'm hitting a short iron or wedge.

2. Always aim for below the hole. Uphill putts are much easier than downhill putts, especially if the break is significant.

3. On most courses with short rough, wedges will tend to fly, so shorten the swing or go to a higher loft wedge.

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