The Masters

This used to be the draw/fade tips thread, but i have decided to turn it into the tips and tricks thread. please post any usefull hints here!

Im finally giving away some tips on Draw/Fade. hope it helps!

i personally shape 75% of my shots, especially on par 3s. if i have a lot of confidence, maybe 90%. But i dont do it to show off, i do it for a reason.
The #3 reason why i shape my shots are trees.Drives or approach shots. this is why i tune workability on my irons pretty high. i hate trees, so i really concentrate to get around them and into short grass. my workability is all the down on drivers, but if you do it manually with M+, then you can hit 50 yard fades.
The #2 reason why i shape my shots are hazards. water and sand are what i consider hazards. i really dont mind rough, but i try to avoid it at all cost. sometimes like at Torrey Pines 18th par 5, theres a lake garding part of the front. to prevent any chances, i try to hit draws into that green around the lake. and now to the number 1 reason..
Fast Greens at an angle.
This is something i really take advantage of. a great example is Bethpage Blacks 3rd hole par 3. it sits at an angle with bunkers in front. if the greens are fast, then straight shots are not going to do it. if it lands straight into the narrow green it will run out of room and go into the back rough. however, a big draw will help, because if you get the ball to land at the same angle as the green, it has time to roll with the green and run it up to the pin. if anyone wants a video, i can add it.
Thithi

Great information and well presented......another blue star for that one. Keep up the good work. I knew you could develop your social skills at an equally fast rate that you developed your gaming skills.

I for one am impressed with the new and improved LongHitter.

Jeffro

Thanks again, jeff.

Now officially the tips and tricks thread. post any hints and tricks you have up your sleve here!

My favorite use of extreme draw and fade is to hit it out of bounds in the middle of a really good round so that I get frustrated and go do something productive for a change.

Hi LH
Problem for me is I don't use the m+ and without it draw/fade is VERY unpredictable....sometimes doesn't work at all...something that really needs to be fixed in this game. Strangely it was never a problem in TW09.

Trick:
On driveable par 4's with bunkers all around, use the slopes of the bunkers to get your shot close.
Example: Doral #2 is driveable from the blue and black tees. Ill use the blue because thats how it is in SIM play.
OK, i use my wood to get there which is far more accurate than driver. Depending on where the flag is, I decide which bunker to use.
Step 1: Adjust loft according to wind. If wind is in your face, the ball will stop quicker.
Step 2: aim your wood so that it hits a slope of a bunker, and then bounces toward the flag. Make sure to adjust for side wind.
Step 3: This is most important. Use spin to get the ball really close. Careful not to put to much.

This 90% of the time gives me a 5-15 foot putt (which the green is flat) that i easily sink for eagle while my opponent lays up for birdie.

I rely on lofting my clubs for most shots. Works pretty good for me. For my shots, every click means 4 yards of distance. Ex: I want to take 12 yards off, I do 3 clicks on the loft and hit 100%. Works well for downhill also. Uphill is close, but a bit off. Not sure why. May not work for all who use loft.

This is a little putting tip for some of our new players that they may not know, when putting, after you look at preview using the minus button look at your putt again before getting out of preview using your "A" button, there is often a small difference, and this has helped me a lot, especially on short putts with drastic slopes.

cem_ea_id.TheKing434 wrote:Trick:
On driveable par 4's with bunkers all around, use the slopes of the bunkers to get your shot close.
Example: Doral #2 is driveable from the blue and black tees. Ill use the blue because thats how it is in SIM play.
OK, i use my wood to get there which is far more accurate than driver. Depending on where the flag is, I decide which bunker to use.
Step 1: Adjust loft according to wind. If wind is in your face, the ball will stop quicker.
Step 2: aim your wood so that it hits a slope of a bunker, and then bounces toward the flag. Make sure to adjust for side wind.
Step 3: This is most important. Use spin to get the ball really close. Careful not to put to much.

This 90% of the time gives me a 5-15 foot putt (which the green is flat) that i easily sink for eagle while my opponent lays up for birdie.

if im that accurate to get to land and roll of that small spot then ignore that and go for the green! i tried it and i failed miserably.

Hi there,
i post this here cause it´s an tip:
T
All of you having problems viewing the .wmv files being offered here:
Right click the url, for example http://www.glenmcd.com/DavidDuvalVsGlenmcd2_Bethpage.wmv and select "Save Target". By doing this you save the file on your Computer and you can start watching it. Because it´s an .wmv, its an Windows Media File, therefore the Mediaplayer should open it.
If not or having problems with any other files like .avi, .vlc etc., the http://www.divx.com/en/win and the http://www.videolan.org/vlc/ players are very mighty players that helped me to watch many movies the older Mediaplayers can´t handle. But beside of that i´m using WMP 12 and it is only integrated in Windows 7. So when using an older Mediaplayer then try the divx codecs. LeeTargo

I never use DRAW/FADE unless it is mandatory e.g. TPC Sawgrass #2, Bethpage #2... I see that Glen uses this alot but mainly just to hit a more lean or straight shot towards the pin instead of letting the wind do its thing. Although this method works just fine and to each his/her own, it restricts the full distance of that club being that the inertia of the ball has to fight the push/pull/drag of the wind (Glen explains this in his thread). Mathematically speaking, the flight of the ball is the "tangent" line and the direction it travels afterwards is the "cotangent". Does everyone rember geometry in 8th grade? Same thing applies in a game of billiards. The most important thing to note is how the speed of the wind applies to the ball, where to aim your circle based upon wind direction and the slope of the green. Anything spinning one direction (clockwise) will always counter spin (counter-clockwise) when it hits a target without applying any additional outside force or spin. Apply the "bounce" factor--meaning that, depending on the hardness of surface how much this surface will be pushing back or appying bounce to the ball. Newton and Einstein explain this the best: a body's motion is described as a combination of free (inertial) motion a.k.a. your golf ball, and deviations from this free motion. Such deviations are caused by external forces (wind/surface/spin) acting on a body in accordance with Newton's second law of motion, which states that: the net force acting on a body is equal to that body's (inertial) mass multiplied by its acceleration. At this point all of you are like "WTF" right? But honestly this is the sh*t that goes through my brain all of the time. Go play a game of pool to understand this better and I'm sure that theJokker and Glen will back me up on this. People with a good knowledge of math and/or physics, especially geometry+calculus will inevitably have no problem playing this game...its whether or not they can swing straight that will determine the outcome. Next up Newton's laws of gravity.....

This is all great information on the how and why, but the important part is the end result. Most people are going to learn this by good ol trial & error. The end outcome is what gets filed away in the mind. At this point is when a shot becomes a read. Most coarses play mathematicly different, so knowledge of different coarses and particular holes play huge factors. I've had shots play perfectly on one hole, the same conditions present itself on a different coarse and had it fail terribly. Most people really do understand the simple physics involved but choose not to go through the whole equation. But rather learn from their mistakes.

I tried using Glen's draw/fade this morning. I had a game at Sheshan and was pleased with the results. I got a heartbeat approach most of the time.

I then had a game at Pinehurst. On the 2nd hole, I was left with a LW and a 9 MPH right to left wind. I adjusted with a fade and hit my shot. My screen flickered and I got an AHO percentage of 77%, with the draw/fade arrow pointing to the right. I let the AHO do it's thing only to have the ball land 15 feet right of the hole.

No more draw/fade for me.

thats the only downside. if an aho kicks in when your drawing/fading, then it can be a bad miss hit. its usually recoverable, though.